Using LV47011P car audio amplifier Diagram Circuit

Using the LV47011P audio power amplifier IC designed for 4-channel BTL power amplifier that developed for car audio system we can implement a very simple car audio amplifier electronic project that can produce an output power between 22 and 50 watts on a 4 ohms load .
This LV47011P car audio amplifier electronic project will provide a maximum 22 watts output power per channel on a 4 ohms load using a 14,4 volts DC power supply at 1% THD .
In same conditions , this car audio amplifier electronic circuit project will provide 29 watts output power at 10% THD .
This IC incorporate various functions (standby switch, muting function, and various protection circuit) necessary for car
audio system and also, it has a self-diagnosis function.
For pop noise prevention, it is recommended to use the muting function at the same time when the amplifier is turned on.
When the amplifier is turn off, turn off the power supply after turning on the muting function .
The muted state is obtained by setting pin 22 to the ground potential, enabling audio muting.
The muting function is turned on by the applied voltage of 1V or less to the resistance of pin 22. And the muting function is turn off when this pin opens.
The circuit is packaged in a Sanyo HZIP 25 package and must be heat sinked , to prevent the damage due to over heating .

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TDA7383 35W Car Quad Audio Amplifier Circuit

The following a 4 x 35 watts channels/quad audio power amplifier circuit based IC TDA7383. The amplifier circuit is designed specifically suitable for car audio system applications. With a fairly large output power per channel, low distortion and low output noise features. Heatsink should be installed on the power IC to avoid excessive heat. There are very simple and easy to build cos only a few additional components outside the IC power.

diagram 4 x 35W Car Audio Amplifier TDA7383

IC TDA7383 is a new technology class AB Audio Power Amplifier in Flexiwatt 25 package designed for high end car radio applications. Thanks to the fully complementary PNP/NPN output configuration the TDA7383 allows a rail to rail output voltage swing with no need of bootstrap capacitors. The extremely reduced components count allows very compact sets. The on-board clipping detector simplifies gain compression operations. The fault diagnostics makes it possible to detect mistakes during Car- Radio assembly and wiring in the car.

Absolute Maximum Ratings of IC TDA7383

Operating Supply Voltage : 18 V
DC Supply Voltage : 28 V
Peak Supply Voltage (t = 50ms) : 50 V
Output Peak Current Repetitive (Duty Cycle 10% at f = 10Hz): 4.5 A
Output Peak Current Non Repetitive (t = 100µs) : 5.5 A
Power dissipation, (Tcase = 70°C) : 80 W
Junction Temperature : 150 °C
Storage Temperature : – 55 to 150 °C

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Car Parking Sensor circuit Using Infra Red LED

This circuit can be used for an assist in parking the car near the garage wall backing up Pls. LED D7 illuminates Pls bumper-wall distance is about 20 cm., D7 + D6 illuminate at about 10 cm. and D7 + D6 + D5 at about 6 cm. In this manner you are alerted Pls approaching too close to the wall.

Car Parking Sensor circuit

All distances mentioned before can vary, depending on infra-red transmitting and receiving LEDs used and are mostly affected by the color of the reflecting surface. Black surfaces lower greatly the device sensitivity. Obviously, you can use this circuit in other applications like liquids level detection, proximity devices etc.

Note:

• The infra-red Photo Diode D2, should be of the type incorporating an optical sunlight filter: these components appear in black plastic cases. Some of them resemble TO92 transistors: in this case, please note that the sensitive surface is the curved, not the flat one.
• Avoid sun or artificial light hitting directly D1 & D2.
• If your car has black bumpers, you can line-up the infra-red diodes with the (mostly white) license or number plate.
• It is wiser to place all the circuitry near the infra-red LEDs in a small box. The 3 signaling LEDs can be placed far from the main box at an height making them well visible by the car driver.
• The best setup is obtained bringing D2 nearer to D1 (without a reflecting object) until D5 illuminates; then moving it a bit until D5 is clearly off. Usually D1-D2 optimum distance lies in the range 1.5-3 cm.

List Component of Car Parking Sensor circuit:

R1 : 10K
R2,R5,R6,R9 : 1K
R3 : 33R
R4,R11 : 1M
R7 : 4K7
R8 : 1K5
R10,R12-R14 : 1K
C1,C4 : 1µF/63V
C2 : 47pF
C3,C5 : 100µF
D1 : Infra-red LED
D2 : Infra-red Photo Diode (see Notes)
D3,D4 : 1N4148
D5-7 : LEDs (Any color and size)
IC1 : NE555
IC2 : LM324
IC3 : LM7812 

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by 2N3055 Power Supply Voltage Adapter for Car

A car voltage generally is 12 Volts. How about when you want to connect non 12 volts devices into your car? The circuit here is the solution. Even the circuit is design for a car apppliance, it does not seem it can’t be used for another purpose.

 

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TDA7560 Car Amplifier Circuit

TDA7560 is a 4 x 45W QUAD BRIDGE CAR RADIO AMPLIFIER PLUS HSD. The TDA7560’s inputs seem to be ground-compatible and can stand quite high input signals (± 8Vpk) with other out any performances degradation. If the basic} value in to the input capacitors (0.1mF) is adopted, the low frequency cut-off will amount to 16 Hz.

The TDA7560 is a breakthrough BCD (Bipolar / CMOS / DMOS) technology class AB Audio Power Amplifierin Flexiwatt 25 package designed for high power car radio. The completely complementary P-Channel/N-Channel output structure allows a rail to rail output voltage swing which, combined with other high output current and minimised saturation losses sets new power references at the car-radio field, with other unparalleled distortion performances.

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Sony Car Stereo

The Sony Corporation, based in Tokyo is a leading manufacturer of audio, video, communications, and information technology products for the consumer and professional markets. Their music, motion picture, television, computer entertainment, and online businesses also make Sony one of the most comprehensive entertainment companies in the world. 

So it is not surprising to learn that Sony car stereos are also well renowned in the automotive audio market. In 2005, Sony car stereos launched their latest carrier car audio product, the Sony car stereo Xplod series which has an amazing lineup of head units, speakers, amplifiers, subwoofers, changers and accessories. It is impressive both in performance and aesthetic value. 

Sony car stereo Xplod Series

A good head unit from the Sony car stereo Xplod Series is the CDX – M9900 CD Receiver/Changer Controller/MP3 Player which boasts these features:   

- 32,000-color TFT display

- Video Input for External Source Playback

- CD/CD-R/CD-RW/MP3 playback

- 4-Volt F/R/Sub Preouts w/HPF & LPF

- 52W x 4 High Power

- CEA-2006 Power Compliant

- CD/MD Control, CD Text

- XM Ready

- BBE MP, DSO, EQ7

- Auxiliary Input

- 1-bit D/A Converter

- Drive-S with 120dB S/N Ratio

- SSIR-EXA tuner, 18FM & 12AM presets

- Red key illumination

- Supplied wireless card remote (RM-X145A)

- Optional wireless rotary remote (RM-X6S)

- Optional wired rotary remote (RM-X4S)   

This Sony car stereo goes best installed with matching items from the Xplod series such as: 

Sony car stereo XS – V6941H 6 x 9” 4 - Way Speakers: 

- 6 x 9" HOP Woofer Cone

- Stroke Stabilizer Surround

- 2-5/8" Cone Mid

- 1" Balanced Dome PEI Tweeter, Super Tweeter

- 400W Peak Power (100W RMS)

- Flexible Mounting Options 

Sony car stereo XM-2100GTX 2/1 Channel Amplifier:

- 600W Max Power

- 100W x 2 RMS into 4 ohms, 20Hz-20kHz @ 0.04% THD

- 250W x 1 RMS into 4 ohms, 20Hz-20kHz @ 0.1% THD

- CEA-2006 Power Compliant

- Variable 50 - 300 Hz low pass filter

- 40 Hz EQ boost

- MOSFET power supply

- RCA & speaker level inputs

Sony car stereo XS-L102P5 10” Subwoofer: 

- 10" Polypropylene Cone

- 1200W Peak Power (330W RMS)

- Unique cone design offers superior rigidity

- Gold-plated Binding Posts

- Small sealed/bandpass enclosure optimized

- 4-Ohm Voice Coil

- 2005 Subwoofer Parameters

Like other modern car audio manufacturers, the Sony car stereo also offers video capable units for playing VCDs, DVDs. A good item from the Sony car stereo Dream System Series is the MV - 900SDS Mobile DVD Dream System. 

- 9" wide Lcd TFT display with swivel function

- DVD/CD-R/RW/VCD/MP3 Playback

- Built-in wired FM modulator

- Reversible display image

- Slot-load DVD Mechanism

- Memory Stick® media for playback of JPEG, MPEG, MP3

- Built-in Stereo Speakers

- A/V Input

- A/V Output

- Optical Digital Output (Dolby Digital®, dts®)

- IR transmitter for wireless headphones

- 2 sets of wireless headphones included

- Wireless card remote included

This unit is encased in a grey metallic finish and is ideally attached on the ceiling of the vehicle. 

It is also an amazing fact that a lot of enthusiasts also incorporate the PlayStation into their Sony car stereos, which is probably one of the reasons why the Sony car stereo system has earned quite a following.     

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Do it yourself how to install a car radio with cd changer

This article explains how to remove an old car stereo and install a new one with a CD changer.

Before you get excited and try to jam that brand new CD player into your dash, there’s some work that needs to be done. First things first; before going any further, remove the negative cable from your battery. This will keep you safe as you are messing around with the wires.

Next, you’ve got to remove your old stereo. This often requires manufacturer’s tools. Consult the old manual for removal instructions. Once the head unit is out, you will see a cage bracket that held the stereo into the dash. This needs to come out. It should be held in either by screws or metal teeth that are bent to hook into the dash piece. If this is the case, simply take a screwdriver and some pliers and bend back the teeth that are sticking into the dash. The cage should slide right out.

Inside the dash you’ll find a bundle of wires connected to a plastic connector. This is your car’s wiring harness. Unfortunately, it will not fit your stereo yet. However, in the new box, you should have a similar looking piece that fits the back of your new head unit. Most of the wires coming out of this stereo harness will eventually match a wire in the car harness. However, at this point we need to match them up. There are two ways you can do this. Preferably, you can pick up an adapter (available at many retail stores) that will clip into the car harness and get crimped onto the stereo wires. If you are unable to get one of these adapters, never fear, you can simply cut the plastic car harness piece off. Avoid this if possible, as the harness wires are not very long, and it will mean you have to crimp them with your hands in the dashboard.

Now, find the wiring information for your old stereo. It should be in the owners manual, but if not, you can find it online. Compare this with the wiring information for your new stereo. There should be listings by wire color and what the wire is connected to. On the wires coming out of your dash and the back of the stereo you should have at least: four pairs of speaker wires, one always-on power wire, and one ground wire. Most modern cars and stereos also have a switched power wire that will turn the stereo off when the ignition goes off. Other wires you might encounter are: an amplifier remote coming out of the stereo, a power antenna control also coming out of the stereo, or possibly a cellular phone control wire coming from the car or the stereo. Besides the wires in the harnesses, there should be a thick antenna cable. Now is a good time to check to see if you need an adapter to make the antenna fit the stereo.

If you’re lucky, the colors of the wires coming out of your stereo and out of the car harness will match up, If this is the case, all you’ll have to do is match the a red always on power wire with a red power wire, black with black, and so on. However, it rarely works out this neatly, so be careful you get the wires right. I would suggest temporarily taping them together just so you can get them all sorted out before you actually connect anything. Now, to actually link them, you need crimps (either red or blue butt-splice or closed-end crimps; wire-nuts will not do here), a crimping tool, and a wire stripper. Use the stripper to take a half-inch of insulation off each of the wires. If you are using butt splice crimps, simply stick the stripped wires you want to connect in either end of the tube, and use the crimping tool to squeeze the crimp shut at either end. Do this for each wire pair you want to match up and you should end up with a long bundle of wires that terminates with the connector in the back of your stereo. If this is all that you’re doing to your stereo, you can put the new cage in by bending the teeth out, plug the stereo and antenna into the harness and slide the whole deal right into your dash.

However, let’s say you have a CD changer to install. If you do, don’t put the stereo back in yet, cause you’ve got more work to do. First, you’ve got to find a place for the changer to be mounted. Some places to think about are in the trunk, under a seat, or under the dash. Think about how much you want to be able to change the CD’s, and how out-of-the-way you want it to be. Just don’t stick it anywhere that it might vibrate against bare metal. Once you figure out where you want it, mount it using the supplied brackets and screws. Take the RCA cable (the one with two plugs at either end) and the controller cable (probably resembles a compute cable), and run them to the dash. This can be very difficult, especially in newer cars, but if you put a little bit of time into it, you can make them invisible by hiding them underneath carpets, along molding pieces, or through body panels. Whatever you do, don’t run them into the engine compartment. When you get the cables run from the changer to the dash, it should be a cinch to plug them into the back of the head unit. Note that certain head units require a special adapter for a CD changer. At this point you can put the cage in if you have not done that. Just put it in the slot and use a screwdriver to bend the teeth out. Then plug in the head unit, hook the battery cable back up, and you’re done. Congratulations on your new stereo.

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12 W car radio power amplifier

General Description

The TDA1020 is a monolithic integrated 12 W audio amplifier in a 9-lead single in-line (SIL) plastic package. The device is primarily developed as a car radio amplifier. At a supply voltage of VP= 14,4 V, an output power of 7 W can be delivered into a 4 Ω load and 12 W into 2 Ω. To avoid interferences and car ignition signals coming from the supply lines into the IC, frequency limiting is used beyond the audio spectrum in the preamplifier and the power amplifier. The maximum supply voltage of 18 V makes the IC also suitable for mains-fed radio receivers, tape recorders or record players. However, if the supply voltage is increased above 18 V (< 45 V), the device will not be damaged (load dump protected). Also a short-circuiting of the output to ground (a.c.) will not destroy the device. Thermal protection is built-in. As a special feature, the circuit has a low stand-by current possibility.

Circuit Diagram:

12 W car radio power amplifier

Datasheet for TDA1020: Download

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Basic devices in the car audio system

Entertainment in the form of music, news or even movies, generated from a series of audio devices found in a car. The series device known as a car audio system.

What tool or device contained in car audio system?
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Car Amplifier with IC LA4445

This circuit using IC LA4445 , this is stereo amplifier with power output 2 X 18 Watt, with this circuit you can use to car amplifier or to other elctronics device. Speaker use woofer with impedance 4 Ohm with power up to 20 Watt. Minimum voltagte require 10 Volt and maximum voltage 18 volt.

Car Amplifier with IC LA4445

If you cant operate the circuit , please check IC , and then voltage in. If voltage is good check the component are. If components are working . Please check speakers.

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